Discovering Hidden Fruit Trees on Your Property
Whether you are a new landowner or have owned your property for years, there is always the chance that you may stumble across a hidden gem or two as you examine your fields and timber stands. Releasing and pruning fruit trees can help restore these hidden resources, enhancing both their productivity and their value for wildlife. The way that we use land today has changed dramatically over the past several decades, much in part to people leaving the family farm for opportunities in a more urban setting.
Self-sustaining farmers in the early to mid-twentieth century used every resource available to produce food for their families and for profit. Having a small orchard of apple, pear, and even cherry trees was commonplace, and although the families may have moved on, the trees remain hidden on the property. There could be the chance that you may have neglected some mast-producing trees on your property as well.
The Resilience of Old Fruit Trees
Jarrod Stephens
Many varieties of fruit trees are amazingly resilient and have a lifespan of up to and sometimes beyond 80 to 100 years. However, once the trees are left to themselves, other trees will begin to crowd and shade them. Crowding and shade, coupled with the fact that annual pruning ceased, causes a dramatic decrease in the quality and quantity of the fruit produced. How can we get these trees back into top production?
There is good news, however, if you do find such trees on your property. Releasing and pruning old fruit trees can truly free the tree’s potential to once again produce fruit that can become a wildlife magnet.
Where to Find Old Fruit Trees
For a fruit tree to produce to its potential, it must receive nearly full sun. Blossom and fruit development require a lot of sunlight. If your property has fence rows or areas that were once pastures on an elevated ridgeline or flat, that’s the place to begin your search.
As pasturelands are abandoned, the surrounding forests will begin encroaching into the once-cleared areas. Farmers would often plant their trees along the edges of pastures. If they had an orchard, then the trees could be scattered throughout the remaining pasture. Likewise, if you have any abandoned agricultural fields or homesteads on your property, you may find the remnants of once-productive fruit trees there, too.
Don’t be deceived by an old fruit tree’s ragged appearance. If it has survived the decades without any care at all and still has living branches, then there is a chance that the tree can be saved.
Releasing Your Fruit Trees
Releasing existing fruit trees is not a complicated endeavor. If old fruit trees are found on your property, it is likely that the area is conducive to good growth and fruit production. Competition from surrounding vegetation will slow the yield and productivity of the fruit trees, so trimming overhead and nearby trees is essential for releasing the potential of the fruit trees.
Safely remove any trees and branches that directly “canopy” the fruit tree. Meaning if any trees are blocking the sun from the tree, take them out. Fruit trees require nearly full sun to produce to their potential, and whenever possible, they should have at least three sides that are fully exposed to all-day sunlight. Removal of all shade on the east, west, and south sides of the tree is recommended.
Jarrod Stephens
In some cases, other species of trees will grow directly under the fruit tree in the area referred to as the dripline. The dripline is the area directly located under the outer circumference of the tree branches. When the tree canopy gets wet, any excess is shed to the ground along this dripline, much like an umbrella. The extra moisture falling encourages the growth of other plants. This is also known as a tree’s critical root zone. It is defined as a circle on the ground corresponding to the dripline of the tree. Trees and other woody plants that are growing beneath the fruit trees should be removed entirely.
Pruning for Maximum Production
After you have removed all competing trees, you can then begin the assessment of the tree to decide the correct course of action. Pruning is most effective during the months of February to early April, before the sap rises and buds begin to break. Try reducing the overall height of the tree to keep it from shading the lower branches. The goal is to have the branches growing out instead of up.
Removal of all dead and dying branches is the first step. It may be easy to identify large dead areas and more difficult to identify the smaller dead branches. You can identify dying branches with a cut near the tip. Look for green evidence of life. Continue trimming until you have reached living tissue. Make all cuts at a 45-degree angle to avoid water retention at the point of the cut. This will expedite healing and prevent decay and disease.
Jarrod Stephens
When removing large branches, avoid cutting branches flush against the main trunk of the tree. Stay away from the bark ridge and branch collar to allow for good healing and regrowth. The bark ridge is the area at the top of the branch where it meets the main trunk. It will appear wrinkled and somewhat overlapped. The branch collar is located on the underside of the branch and can be identified as a noticeable line where the branch meets the main trunk. Trim away nearly one-third of the tree’s canopy to maximize the amount of sun penetration.
You don’t have to get the pruning perfect during the first season, and you can monitor your tree’s success after your first pruning. Branches that are rubbing against others and ones that are dropping near the ground should be removed. Avoid trying to “shape” the fruit tree to look like a shade tree. Remember, the key is to release the tree’s fruit-bearing potential.
It is also common to find what is referred to as water sprouts growing vigorously on abandoned trees. These sprouts will appear slick and shiny. Most will grow from the main trunk and branches and sometimes from the roots beneath the tree’s dripline.
Fertilization and Tree Maintenance
Once you have released and pruned your fruit trees, you can enhance their production by applying fertilizer around the tree. Scattering either granular or organic fertilizer around the tree will allow the roots to absorb it as it soaks into the soil after a rain. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur should be given. Annual reapplication is recommended for the best production.
As trees and plants around the fruit tree once again grow larger, you will likely have to trim them back again. If sprouts reemerge near the base, along the trunk, or even from the roots, they should be clipped so that they don’t rob the tree of its nutrients. Never allow trees to begin growing beneath the fruit tree, and annual pruning is recommended for the removal of all dead branches and overgrown sprouts. Released trees can begin improved production within the first year of care.
Wild Fruit Trees: Crabapples and Persimmons
Jarrod Stephens
Domesticated fruit trees are not the only varieties that can benefit from a release. Crabapple and persimmon trees can add diversity to the feeding options for your wildlife if they are given the same attention as other fruit trees. Persimmon trees will not need to be pruned but instead need to have trees around them removed or trimmed to allow more sunlight to reach their branches. Fruit will become larger and be produced in greater quantities. Like other fruit trees, crabapple trees can be released both by trimming and removal of competing trees.
Conclusion
Results from released fruit trees can appear within the first season and continue after the initial pruning and subsequent seasons of care. However, results will vary from tree to tree depending on its overall health. Older trees many times do not fully return to the potential of a younger tree, but any fruit that is yielded is a win-win for you and the wildlife on your property.
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