After a pleasant, but unproductive, evening archery hunt, it was always good to see light emanating from camp. That meant that someone had already fired up the Coleman lantern and the returning hunters could see to change clothes and get the evening meal started. That lantern, fueled with white gas, was far brighter than any flashlight. Over time, the camp evolved from using lanterns to 12-volt battery-powered lighting, and now proudly boasts 120-volt power — yet it remains a mile from the nearest powerline. And no, the 120 volts doesn’t come from a noisy generator. It’s harnessed from the sun! Solar energy for hunting cabins has revolutionized the way we experience camp life, offering a quiet, renewable power source that keeps modern conveniences running deep in the woods.
Our hunting camp now thrives on solar energy. It’s fairly simple for a do-it-yourselfer. If you have a remote hunting cabin, you will be amazed at what solar energy can do for you. Although it’s thoroughly enjoyable, hunting can be draining. Cooking is the last thing I want to do at the end of an evening hunt. Sure, I need to eat, but with a microwave oven, preparing dinner is effortless. The cabin is no longer dimly lit by a single bulb — it’s as bright as a shop in New York City. The television is tuned to the national news, and someone recently ran the Hoover over the cabin’s floor. On this warm October evening, a box fan pulls in the cool breeze, keeping the air fresh. And forget about the dreadful percolated camp coffee! Now, the Keurig brews a perfect cup of dark roast, consistently smooth and satisfying. The best part? The water that once required endless hand pumping now flows freely from the faucet, thanks to an electric pump that’s saved us all from sore arms.
In order to utilize the sun’s natural energy there are four items needed; a solar panel, a solar controller, a battery bank, and an inverter. To harness this abundant energy, the first component to consider is the solar panel itself.
Essential Components for a Solar Power System
The Photovoltaic Panel
A monocrystalline solar panel is a type of photovoltaic (PV) panel used to generate electricity from sunlight. This panel is dark in color and is generally the most efficient type of solar panel. It converts roughly 20% of sunlight into electricity. I started out with one 300-watt solar panel. Because my cabin is in the woods, I mounted it on the roof of the cabin, giving it the best view of the sky. This was a tricky endeavor and I would have rather had it mounted on the ground, tilted skyward, but that was not a viable option for me. Mounting the panel on the roof required drilling a hole in the roof for the wiring – something I was not fond of doing.
This 300-watt panel converted enough energy for me to do all of the things listed previously. Being in Michigan, some days are rather cloudy. Sometimes it can be cloudy for weeks. This panel still converts light to solar energy when it’s cloudy, but at a much-reduced rate. I added a second panel to double the energy production on cloudy days. Oddly enough, these panels do much better on those cloudy days when the weather is cold. An overcast February day generates much more solar energy to my system than a cloudy August day would. The best circumstance is a nice sunny day with very little cloud cover. On these days, the two panels produce more energy than my controller really wants!
A solar panel will generate 35 to 45 volts. I have two panels, wired in series (one panel’s positive wire connects to the negative wire on the panel beside it) and they typically produce 66 incoming volts. This is enough to keep my solar charge controller happy on all but the cloudiest days. One 300-watt monocrystalline panel currently runs about $300.
If you’re experienced and confident in handling electrical work, this project should be a breeze. However, if you’re uncertain about wiring safely, it’s best to consult a licensed electrician.
The Solar Charge Controller
Jack Ammerman
The solar panels are connected to a wall-mounted charge controller, which is the heart of any solar power system. This clever device manages the electricity coming from the solar panels, preparing it for safe storage in batteries. Think of it as a traffic cop for electricity, directing the flow of power and ensuring everything runs smoothly.
The charge controller’s main job is to protect your batteries. It prevents them from being overcharged during sunny days and stops them from being drained too much when it’s cloudy. This careful management significantly extends the life of your batteries, saving you money in the long run.
But that’s not all – many modern charge controllers are mini-computers. They can show you how much power your panels are producing, how full your batteries are, and even alert you if there’s a problem. Some can even be connected to your phone or computer, letting you check on your solar system from anywhere.
A charge controller will regulate the way that the energy is applied to the batteries. Like any good battery charger, it will give full steam ahead, using maximum bulk input when the batteries need it. When the batteries are close to being fully charged, the charge controller will switch to a float mode that trickles energy toward your batteries. This smart charging approach ensures your batteries are charged efficiently and safely. Expect to pay between $500 and $1,200 for a good charge controller.
The Battery Bank
Once your solar panel has harnessed the sun’s energy and your charge controller has regulated the flow, the next stop is the battery bank. This is where all that energy gets stored, ready to be used when the sun isn’t shining — whether that’s at night or during a string of cloudy days.
Jack Ammerman
I started out with a small 12-volt battery bank, but soon realized that more capacity was needed to power all the modern conveniences. Nowadays, my battery bank consists of four six-volt deep-cycle batteries connected in series-parallel, giving me plenty of storage to run everything from the microwave to the TV, even when the clouds hang low for days.
Deep-cycle batteries are different from the car battery you might be familiar with. They’re designed to be discharged and recharged repeatedly without losing their ability to hold a charge, making them perfect for solar systems. A typical deep-cycle battery for solar use is rated at around 100 amp-hours. That might not mean much, but it translates to hours of usable energy, especially when you have multiple batteries working together.
Of course, you’ll want to make sure your battery bank has enough capacity to store all the energy your panels produce on sunny days, so you don’t run out of juice when you need it most. Remember that charge controller discussed earlier? I have my charge controller set to turn off the outgoing power if my batteries dip below 10 volts. This is to protect the batteries and prevent damage. Depending on the time and circumstance, I can wait until the sun reacts with the solar panels a while, or I can fire up a small generator to bump up the charge to get the batteries up above 10 volts again.
These batteries, much like your car’s battery, require some regular maintenance. As they charge, they produce hydrogen gas, which causes a small amount of the battery’s acid to evaporate. Over time, this can lower the acid level in your batteries, affecting their ability to hold a charge. To keep them in good working order, it’s important to check the electrolyte levels every few months, especially if you’re using traditional flooded lead-acid batteries.
The process is simple: pop the caps off the batteries and take a look inside. If the fluid levels are low, top them off with distilled water. Be sure not to overfill them, as the acid can spill out when the batteries charge. Also, make sure to clean off any corrosion around the terminals—it’s a common problem with lead-acid batteries that can reduce their efficiency. A quick scrub with a mixture of baking soda and water usually does the trick.
If maintenance sounds like a hassle, you might consider AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) or lithium batteries, which are sealed and don’t require topping off or checking fluid levels. However, they do come at a premium price, so it’s something to weigh depending on your budget and needs. I purchased traditional lead-acid batteries. Expect to pay around $150 to $300 per battery, depending on the type and capacity. And while lithium batteries are becoming popular for their lightweight and long-lasting nature, they can be significantly more expensive.
The Inverter
Jack Ammerman
Now that we have our solar panels generating energy, a charge controller regulating the flow, and a battery bank storing the power, it’s time to convert that DC power into the AC power that our appliances can use. That’s where the inverter comes in.
When it comes to inverters, there are two main types: “sine wave” and “modified sine wave” (also known as dirty power). Modified sine wave inverters are cheaper and more common, but they produce a choppy, irregular output that can damage sensitive electronics and cause problems with appliances like microwaves and refrigerators. On the other hand, sine wave inverters produce a smooth, clean output that’s identical to the AC power provided by the grid. This clean power is essential for running sensitive electronics and appliances reliably. Think of it like water: modified sine wave is like rough, turbulent water, while sine wave is like calm, clear water. For my cabin, I chose a 3000-watt pure sine wave inverter to ensure that all my appliances run safely and efficiently.
As mentioned earlier, with this inverter, I can run my microwave, lights, TV, and even my K-cup coffee maker without worrying about damaging them with dirty power. I haven’t told many people about it, but it even powers a portable air conditioner when I need it.
My inverter also has a built-in charger, which allows me to charge my batteries from a generator if needed. Expect to pay roughly $1,500 for a good quality inverter, depending on the wattage and features.
The Downsides of Small System Solar Energy
Jack Ammerman
After roughing it for decades, being able to flip a switch and light the room up is amazing. The two solar panels and small battery bank does 95% of everything that I ask it to. While it will run an air compressor, it struggles with a blow dryer (for my wife – not me!) Items that draw high wattage will tax the battery bank enough to shut the system down, which means it’s generator time. Running two or three box fans throughout hot nights will drain my batteries enough stop the coffee maker from making me happy in the morning. One day of bright sunshine will easily top off the batteries, but sometimes those bright days are at a premium. A week of cloudy days will force me to charge the batteries via generator if my electricity use is high.
You get used to having electricity in a remote cabin and you can forget how you used to have to rough it. Those times that you step over the power-usage line seem to be really annoying, but in reality, it’s just a temporary inconvenience. Having solar energy stored and ready to light your cabin is far better than pumping up the pressure on an old Coleman lantern!
Why You should consider solar Power for Your Hunting Cabin
Now that you understand the components of a solar energy system, it’s clear how this technology can transform your remote hunting experience. I used to rough it when using the remote hunting cabin. Although those were some great and memorable times, I think I’ve paid my dues and can appreciate the wonders of having electricity in the middle of nowhere. If you have a remote hunting cabin, I urge you to consider ditching the generator and installing a solar system. When I talked with experts before I jumped in, I was skeptical. I know now, first hand, that the sun will power my lights and help me cook dinner on the darkest of nights.
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