Northern pike swim under many of the frozen lakes that fishermen frequent. Imagine sitting in a warm enclosure—called an “ice shanty” in Michigan, a “fish-house” in Minnesota, or an “ice shack” in other regions—on a frozen lake, staring down into fairly shallow water. The hole in the ice isn’t just any small, round panfish hole cut in by an auger. This hole is much larger; so large that a man could fall into it! A sucker minnow swims on a tether below, or an artificial pike decoy swims in circles with each tug of the attached line. Without any warning, a northern pike glides in—inches at a time. You slowly lower the head of your seven-tined spear into the water when the pike is directly under the hole. The pike is now motionless, and staring at what it thinks will be its next meal. The spear is sent sailing just five feet down and the pike that was thinking of its next meal just became your next meal!
While rod and reel ice fishing is popular across the northern tier of states, pike spearing offers a unique, visual hunting experience that’s as much about patience and observation as it is about the catch. That’s right, I said hunting. In many ways this is more like hunting whitetails than fishing. Instead of feeling for a bite, you’re watching the underwater world unfold before you, waiting for that perfect moment to strike – what veteran spearers affectionately call “backstabbing” their quarry.
Where You Can Spear
Pike spearing through the ice is only legal in a handful of states, primarily in the upper Midwest. Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan have established seasons and regulations. A few other northern states allow the practice in limited areas. If you live outside these regions, check your state’s fishing regulations carefully—most states either prohibit spearing altogether or restrict it to rough fish species. For those fortunate enough to live in pike spearing territory, this traditional winter pursuit offers a thrilling alternative to conventional ice fishing.
From Then to Now
My dad used to lug a heavy ice shanty out on the lake in pieces and then assemble it. He would use a spud to chop a large rectangular hole in the ice and he’d leave that shanty in that spot all winter long. The shanty never moved. It was so much manual work; I don’t blame him!
Things have changed for the better though. While you’re still welcome to use a permanent shanty, chances are that you will haul it out to “the spot” with a UTV, a four-wheeler, a snowmobile, or even a vehicle. Most pike spearers today use portable shanties, either hub-style or flip-over designs. I use an Otter Cabin flip-over shanty and I find that it works great for two people!
Ice Thickness and Water Depth
The first thing that’s needed is a frozen lake that has Northern Pike. Everyone has their own level of comfort as far as the thickness of the ice goes. My comfort level is four inches and I really prefer five. There’s no fish in the world worth falling through the ice!
Depth is important when spearing. Although it can be done, throwing a spear at a pike that’s 14 feet below you is a tough task. I prefer setting up in 8 to 10-feet of water and spearing at about six feet. I’ve seen guys spear pike in holes that were cut out in just three feet of water. With that depth, your vision is limited. Looking down into eight feet of water allows you to see more than what’s directly below you.
Loanna Ammerman
Ice Hole
After choosing a spot, you will need to put a hole in the ice. My spearing holes are generally three feet long and about two feet wide. You can get away with smaller holes, for sure, but the bigger cut-out gives you much more vision and time to get ready when a pike floats in.
Some people drill several holes with their auger, each hole almost touching the next. The proposed rectangular hole will look like Swiss cheese until a spud or saw is used to finish the job. I like the auger method, but depending on the thickness of the ice, I will drill fewer holes and use an ice saw to cut the outline of my rectangle.
An ice saw is a large version of a foldable handsaw, except the blades are meant to cut ice. Mine is about seven feet long when unfolded and rips through ice with ease. I have a second-hand chainsaw that I bought just for ice fishing. It works great in ice that is 16-inches thick (or less), but if you use a chainsaw, be prepared to get wet! The rotating chain brings up water by the gallon and the operator never seems to be far enough away from the saw to stay dry.
The last item needed for clearing a large spearing hole is a way to get the loose ice out of the hole. While you can push the larger chunks under the ice, the water’s surface will be full of ice chips and slush. A four-inch dipper will take all day to clear the way. Some people use a section of ¼” hardware cloth. This welded wire screen is dipped into the hole and removes the majority of the slush. I had the bright idea of trying a commercial deep fryer basket. It works great! The holes are smaller in the mesh (I presume that’s to keep the French fries in the basket,) and it only takes me two scoops for a perfectly clean hole, and the long handle makes it easy to use.
Getting Close to Actually Spearing!
Spearing shelters are sometimes called “dark-houses,” and for good reason. Once the spearing hole is prepared, it’s time to position your shanty so that you can sit facing the hole. Close all the windows in the shanty and you will easily see the bottom, even on a bright day with full sun. I have a seven-tined pike spear that has a small cord attached to the handle. The other end of the cord gets tied to the shanty in one way or another. This prevents you from losing your spear.
If you’re going to use live minnows, generally either a sucker or a shiner, I recommend using a harness instead of a hook. The harness allows you to keep your minnow alive much longer, even for another day if you want. Hooked minnows generally don’t fare too well. The upside of using a hooked minnow is that you may watch a carnivorous Northern take the bait and be able to land it. I prefer to spear though, so if I use a minnow, it gets a harness.
Although nothing is more real than a live fish, a decoy sure seems to bring the pike in. I use a 10″ pike decoy that’s painted red and white. This decoy swims in circles with each tug of the line on which it is suspended. Who knows what a northern pike thinks, but they will float in and just stare at that decoy, giving you time to send a pointed spear their way. I’ve had ferocious pike show up and attack the decoy as well, but most of them just seem to be curious.
I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention my occasional technique of hanging a golf ball on a string. My golf ball is painted half red and half white. The line gets twisted, causing the golf ball to slowly spin. The red and white flashing has drawn pike into the kill zone for me. They haven’t attacked the golf ball yet, but I don’t give them much time to decide. If they’re big enough, they get the spear!
The Throw and Retrieval
When a pike finally glides into position beneath your hole, your heart will race, but this is the moment to stay calm. The trickiest part of spearing is accounting for water refraction. Light bends as it passes through water, making the fish appear slightly higher and to the side of where it actually is. Anyone who has been bow fishing knows what I’m talking about. The general rule is to aim low and slightly forward of where the pike appears to be. The deeper the fish, the more pronounced this effect becomes, which is why I prefer spearing at six feet rather than ten or twelve.
At that depth, I aim for the spot just behind the fish’s head and slightly lower than it appears. With a seven-tined spear, you have some margin for error, but it’s amazing how I can miss a fish! Sometimes it takes a few throws to figure it out.
When you commit to the throw, make sure your spear head is already below the surface of the water. A splash as it breaks the surface will lead to a startled pike and a sure miss. You have to throw it with enough thrust to penetrate, but it took me a while to realize that I don’t have to throw it as hard as I can.
Once you’ve connected, grab that retrieval cord immediately! The spear itself doesn’t kill the fish instantly, and a thrashing pike can work itself loose if you’re not careful. Pull the spear up hand-over-hand, keeping steady tension on the line. As the fish nears the surface, be ready – they often have one last surge of energy. I keep a second spear nearby for larger pike or those that I need a better hold on, but most of the time I can guide the spear and fish right up through the hole. Some spear-anglers grab the fish by the gill plate once it’s close enough, but be careful with those teeth!
Once you’ve landed your pike, work the spear tines back out carefully. They’re barbed, so you’ll need to back them out the way they went in. Some experienced spearers temporarily cover their barbs with electricians’ tape to help guide them back through. I haven’t tried that as I’m usually pretty excited after scoring a nice northern and I forget all about it. Pike are slimy, so be careful of losing your grip. It’s messy work, but that’s part of the experience.
Chances are good that you’ve clouded the water a bit from all the action stirring up the bottom. Clean your spear in the lake water and get it back in position – you never know when the next one will cruise in.
Eric Engbretson
Comfort is King
You might think that pike spearing on a frozen lake would be a cold endeavor. With even the smallest propane heater, your shanty should be warm enough that you can fish in a tee-shirt. I use foam padding under my feet. Although I have no desire to ice fish barefoot, the foam insulates my feet from the frozen ice that my feet are on all day.
That little heater is also good for heating up food and coffee or cocoa. With just a little imagination, you can pack a meal that will heat up nicely and provide you with the nourishment that all pike spearing fishermen need!
When it’s Time to Pack up
After your pike spearing day is over and your gear is all stashed and ready to haul away, you have one last responsibility. That large hole in the ice is dangerous to anyone that comes after you for a couple of days. You absolutely have to mark your hole with a large tree branch or pine bough. The people on the lake after you leave will see the branch sticking up and know that someone’s marked it for them. Keep a few branches in your vehicle during spearing season – they’re essential safety markers that could save someone from a dangerous plunge.
Most people that fish tend to keep their fishing spots a secret and hope that they are the only ones on that section of ice. I write this to encourage you to try pike spearing. When the angler in the shanty twenty yards away spears a nice one, I’m as happy and excited as if I had backstabbed it myself. The lakes are large and there’s room for you. Give it a try!
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